Friday, August 1, 2008

Cetho and Sukhu Temple trip

This picture is special for Lauren, Lore and Liz - good jumping spot! wish you were here!


The countryside, terraced rice fields, coffee plantations, farmlands, Mt. Lawu towering above, winding streets climbing on the slopes of the volcano, awe-inspiring landscapes, breathtaking views, peace and exhilaration . On the slopes of Lawu stands Cetho temple full of phallic symbols, a place for male virility ceremonies. Cetho means clear because from the gateway of this temple one can see clear to Surakarta and all the plantations and villages flowing down the mountain.

Climbing through successive pyramid like gateways you reach the temple and squeeze through and up a steep staircase to the top where a giant linggus (penis) once stood and rites were performed (the linggus is now at the National Museum in Jakarta).

Further and steeper on the slopes of Mt. Lawu is Sukuh temple that was used for female fertility and marriage preparation ceremonies. At the gateway of this temple is a place that is believed by the Hindu to help a woman who cannot become pregnant be fertile by performing a ritual there. The temple grounds have various levels that were used for different rituals and meditation practices. The grounds are landscaped and gamelan music rings up the mountainside from a nearby wedding.

Mt. Lawu looms in the distance.



Coffee plantations line the slopes and hills up Mt. Lawu



The Cetho Temple after going through the successive gateways. It is about 1 story high. The temple being at the back of the site is in the East Java style, the Central Java temples of Borobudur and Pramadan built earlier have the temple in the center. The style is reminiscent of the ancient Maya and Aztec temples of Central America although there is no evidence of contact between these cultures.



View from the temple steps leading to top out to the various descending levels and gateways.



Sukuh Temple is also built with various levels that ascend towards the temple but has only one gateway that looks more like a mini temple and fertility rites would be performed there.


By the way, this trip was done on the back of a motorcycle with a guide. A motorcycle is the best way to see and experience Indonesia.