Sunday, July 13, 2008

Solo where you aren't solo at all

Only a few hours in Solo and already I have been to three art events and made multiple new friends. I even got an invitation to stay at one artist's house with her. She is doing this experimental wayang called wayang kucing (shadow cat) on a Fulbright grant. She is also working with this serious and funny guy on a dance/wayang performance where the dancers and the puppets interact telling a story adapted from Macbeth and intertwined with Javanese mythology. When I told Jon, the choreographer of the dance/wayang piece, that I would love to find out more about his work he replied in an sms (this is what they call text msg here), "I'd love to find out more about my work too!". These are just some of my new friends. Of course there is my guide for the next two weeks, Furquon. His English is better than some of my student's. He learned English by watching American films and TV. He loves Hillary Duff. Lets not forget Kitsie, the catalyst for this experience, who we visited at her gamelan rehersal. Gamelan is a powerful, spiritual, meditative music. Hearing this music was spellbinding. I also had the pleasure of meeting a professor from Brown University who is a gamelan musician and also happens to be staying at the guesthouse where I am staying.
Cakra Guesthouse (pronounced shakra) is down an alley off a main road. Alley doesn't sound so good, but thats the way things are here. Its probably not an alley I just see it that way. Its a street. It has a street sign and everything. Alleys don't have addresses, right? Behind this beautiful iron gate is the guesthouse. A series of courtyards with rooms all around. A pool at the end with a small pendopo, open roofed structure where public events take place. The rooms are very sparse. The bathrooms are like the one you would find on a 30-40 ft boat. No plumbing so you have to dump water from this basin into the toilet to have it flush. Its clean. The roosters start at about 4 or 5am, not sure. The Islamic prayers start shortly after the crows at 4:30am. I manage to fall back asleep. Its not uncomfortably hot with my fan, but the mosquitoes find the mango blood where ever it might be and set off for a covert attack. Actually I wasn't sure if I just got itchy all of a sudden from the mosquito bites from earlier in the evening or if they were sucking my blood while I slept, nonetheless I took a couple benadryl and slept like a log...until the crows started, you know.
Solo is a busy city. People don't speak much English. I think of myself as a pretty resourceful person, but when you only know a few words in the native language its hard to get basic things done. Like figure out whats for breakfast. I found a bakery and bought some cheesy bread things and then went to a warung and bought some fried up things. For breakfast! Furquon told me that Javanese eat rice maybe with some fried eggs for breakfast. I have no idea where to find this. I love fried eggs with rice! A staple of the Alvarez household growing up. Throw some ketchup on there and you have all your food groups except dairy (drink a cafe con leche and then you have a complete meal).

9 comments:

M.H. said...

OMG I'm so jealous of the super cool work that you are doing. DId he really learn English from American movies? I never believe people who say that, I mean, how is that possible?!?! If he did, then I give him mad props.

I can't wait to see the photos, Mel! You are the coolest!

Leah said...

Ah yes, the trusty benedryl... world wide, helping us slumber. I agree with jenny - you are the coolest and i'm totally jealous! and rice and eggs sound delish...

bahhne said...

It sure is a family/cuban tradition. We had rice and eggs the other day for dinner it's one of Darian's favorites. Don't worry if you were in Miami you'd be attacked by the mosquitoes just as bad as in Java. Darian got eaten alive just waiting to be put in the car yesterday.

Wendella said...

there are a few things i remember about my months in Indonesia -- "mempi manis" means sweet dreams , literally...love it.

"mata sapi" means 'cow's eye', and that 's an egg that is still runny inside , get that on your nasi goreng (fried rice)..........yum!

also loved to eat "gado gado" in Indo, it means literally whatever is in the fridge, served with peanut sauce...

also i remember how to insult someone in a jokey way ..."kapala udon" which means 'shrimp head' which is like saying you're an airhead or fool....

java a great time!
xxoo wendy

Melissa Alvarez said...

I am so glad you have all responded. First, I don't know how much of his English was really learned from movies and TV, but he did mention that in school they make them memorize English words but don't teach them how they are put together, so probably he had this vocabulary and learned how to put it together by watching American media. He also loves the BBC.
I finally had the nasi telur(rice and egg) with a whole bunch of other delicious Indonesian food. I will have to ask for it mata sapi, thats how we eat it at home. YUM!
Mosquitoes I am trying to live with. Everything else that in my normal life would seriously annoy me, I tell myself, "This is part of your life, its okay" and it is, but the mosquito bites are a little harder to let go of.

Lauren said...

Wow, nice guest house! You even have a pool! How much is it a night? Sounds basic but brilliant. Send us pictures of your room.

And make sure to learn some recipes! Tell some women friend of yours that you'll buy the food and feed her fam if you can hang with her while she makes some yummy dish. I fed people a lot in Ghana to learn their specialties. It was a good exchange.

Melissa Alvarez said...

Lauren, Of course, YOU would know some clever way of learning to cook in a foreign country. I think I can manage that. There's a little place right across from the guest house that I think might let me in with the proper persuasion.
The guesthouse is 120,000rp which is roughly $12 a night. I have been getting in the pool almost every day. Swimming some laps. I usually go somewhere with Furquon in the morning and then again in the evening if there is some performance.

bahhne said...

That would be great to have some recipes to bring back with you.

bahhne said...

Can't believe the guest house is only $12 a day that's so cheap ... and awesome.